First order stochastic Lagrange models for frontback asymmetric ocean waves
Georg Lindgren and Sofia Åberg
Centre for Mathematical Sciences
Mathematical Statistics
Lund Institute of Technology,
Lund University,
2008
ISSN 14039338

Abstract:

The Gaussian linear wave model, which has been successfully used in ocean
engineering for more than half a century, is well understood, and there exists
both exact theory and efficient

numerical algorithms for calculation of the statistical distribution of wave
characteristics. It is well suited for moderate seastates and deep water
conditions. One drawback, however, is its lack of realism under extreme or
shallow water conditions, in particular its symmetry. It produces waves which
are stochastically symmetric, both in the vertical and in the horizontal
direction. From that point of view, the Lagrangian wave model, which describes
the horizontal and vertical movements of individual water particles, is more
realistic. Its stochastic properties are much less known, and have not been
studied until quite recently. This paper presents a version of the first
order stochastic Lagrange model that is able to generate irregular waves
with both cresttrough and

frontback asymmetry.




Key words:

Gaussian process, occupation density, significant wave height, wave height
